Look beyond the sand and surf to the fascinating history of the parish of Perranzabuloe. Situated in...
With fishing nets and mineshafts long exchanged for surfboards and shooters, Newquay is the undisputed party capital of Cornwall. The town is something of a higgledy-piggledy expanse by virtue of its location around the jutting headlands and deep coves of the north Cornish coast, yet it is its geography that has secured Newquay the title of number one surfing destination in the UK. The town's numerous beaches join further vast, open expanses of sand in the shape of Perranporth to the south, which seem somewhat incongruous next to the closed coves and rocky outcrops that have so famously claimed the lives of many seamen in nearby St. Agnes. Even if Newquay gets a bad rap as the boisterous child of the county, it still retains a strong sense of fun that's uniquely Cornish.
Arm yourself with a powerful water pistol and attend the annual Run to the Sun (www.runtothesun.co.uk ) festival. Held on the second of May's Bank Holiday weekends, the infamous gathering is the perfect kickstart to another summer season in Newquay. Marvel at the array of lovingly customised VWs, but watch your back there's bound to be someone behind you with a Supersoaker.
With such a fine selection of beaches on its doorstep, it seems a shame not to try the surfing that has made Newquay's name. The surf schools are too numerous to mention, though the British Surfing Association-accredited National Surfing Centre www.nationalsurfingcentre.co.uk at Fistral beach is a good place to start. Also worth checking out is the Hibiscus Surf School www.hibiscussurfschool.co.uk it's the first women-only surf school in Europe. If surfing's not your bag, yet you're itching for an adrenalin fix, Watergate Bay's Extreme Academy www.extremacademy.co.uk offers expert tuition in kitesurfing on this stunning beach just north of Newquay. What's more, they've got a mountain boarding course just up the hill if you've left your sea legs at home. For further kicks, Lusty Glaze www.lustyglaze.co.uk is worth a look. There's the longest zip wire in Europe, as well as caving and climbing, all set in beautiful surroundings. If you fancy taking it easy, the area's many beaches are perfect for an afternoon in the sun, though when swimming at Perranporth and St. Agnes some caution is required due to the strong currents.
For a healthy portion of tradition that is fascinating as well as amusing, head up to St Columb Major on Shrove Tuesday to take in the ancient Cornish sport of hurling http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurling_the_Silver_Ball#The_game_at_St._Col... , where the 'townsfolk' play viciously against the 'countryfolk' to pass a silver ball through the village to one of the goalposts that are set about two miles apart.
Newquay boasts a good handful of excellent restaurants alongside the cheap and cheerful takeaways. Fistral Blu www.fistral-blu.co.uk is a good starting point, offering great food at reasonable prices. It's right on the beach, to boot. Heading into town, the Chy Bar www.the-chy.co.uk offers up big salads and great chips to the young pretty things waiting to get into the adjoining Koola Bar. The restaurant on the beach at Lusty Glaze www.lustyrestaurant.com is as exciting as the activities unfolding on the sand in front of it expect modern British fusion food. If it's good, honest fish'n'chips, you're after Truscott's www.truscottsfish.com is a good bet for the authentic seaside experience.
Down in St. Agnes, the newly refurbished Driftwood Spars www.driftwoodspars.com boasts great views out to sea in its restaurant, whilst the downstairs bar is a must in winter for a crackling open fire and a perfect balance of portion and price. Back in Watergate Bay, Jamie Oliver's southwest project is causing something of a stir. Fifteen Cornwall www.fifteencornwall.co.uk follows a similar format to the London flagship, but with a far better view than you'd find in Hoxton. About to embark on its first summer, expect a waiting list as hefty as the bill.
The choices are as diverse as they are plentiful. In Newquay, Lewinnick Lodge www.bestpubs.co.uk/layout0.asp?pub=111088 lewinnick lodge offers spectacular views off Pentire that perfectly compliment a sunset. Skinners Ale House www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/34/3482/Skinners_Ale_House/Newquay does exactly what it says on the tin, serving up the mouth watering real ales that have made the Truro microbrewery's name. The recently opened Sugarlounge www.sugarloungenewquay.co.uk gets the trendy vote with low lighting, stripped wood, exposed brickwork and van der Rohe-style furnishings. It's proving a firm pre-club favourite. For something a little more laid back, The Riv www.theriv.co.uk has a deck watching over the beach at Mawgan Porth, whilst The Phoenix www.thephoenixpub.co.uk at Watergate Bay also offers outdoor drinking, a varied drinks menu and live music throughout the year.
There's no shortage of late night options back in Newquay, even if some of them might make you wince. The pick of the bunch are the Koola Bar www.thekoola.com and the Barracuda www.barracudanewquay.com , both of which offer regular big name DJ nights. For live music, the Driftwood joins St. Agnes's Taphouse and Perranporth's Watering Hole www.the-wateringhole.co.uk as the premier venues, the last of which is actually on the beach.
Newquay is overrun with surf shops keen to kit you out in the latest garb. Choose from one of the four branches of the Fistral Surf Company www.fistralsurf.com , where you can find the best in surfing hard and soft ware, as well as the latest in streetwear at the FSC Fashion outlet. Ideal for those inevitable nights on the town. Check out the choppers and beach cruisers at Airjam (www.airjam.co.uk ). For a custom-made surfboard, Beach Beat www.beachbeatsurfboards.co.uk in St. Agnes is undoubtedly the best bet. They'll make one to your spec, and the quality and finish more than justify the wait.
The pace in Newquay will certainly justify a break. The sweeping, open dunes behind Perran Sands are great for an afternoon stroll, whilst the more secluded beaches to the south at Holywell Bay are typical of the area that extends down to St. Agnes, where the jaws of the coves gradually close in. Climb St. Agnes Beacon for a breathtaking 360° panorama that can stretch as far as St. Michael's Mount. Even if your legs grumble, your eyes certainly won't.